FZ1 Holeshot Stage 1 kit, part IV: Timing Advancer

January 11, 2015

A timing advancer is included in the Holeshot FZ1 Stage 1 kit.  The idea is to replace the stock timing disk under the right side engine cover with a disk that causes the spark to fire slightly sooner. According to the Holeshot site this improves gas mileage, throttle response, and allows the use of regular 87 octane gas.

FZ1 Timing Advancer kit

Interestingly the Holeshot site advises not to run the timing advancer without first installing the Stage 1 kit while it claims the slip-on can be run with the stock carburetor settings.  While I trust Dale's judgment I wouldn't install any performance upgrades without first doing the carburetor tuning (Stage 1 or Stage 2 kit or equivalent).  To do otherwise is asking for trouble in my opinion.

There were a few reasons why I delayed installing the timing advancer, the most important being none of the installation methods were very appealing.

I've installed Holeshot timing advancers on 2 Bandits and the install is trivial.  Unbolt the right side engine cover, remove a hex bolt, swap timing disks, reinstall the bolt, and put the engine cover back on.  30 minutes at most if there are engine guards in the way.

Unfortunately the bolt securing the timing disk on the FZ1 also turns the motor.  So there is no way to remove it with a regular socket wrench without finding some way to stop the engine from turning with the bolt as you turn it.  Otherwise the engine turns and the bolt never gets loose.

The Holeshot kit instructions outline 3 ways to do this, none of which I liked.

1. Dale's recommendation:  spin the bolt out and reinstall with an air impact wrench, using red threadlock on the bolt.  I don't like using air tools unless there are no other alternatives because of the high amount of force delivered to bolt heads and threads.  And I don't like threadlock.
2. Put the bike in 6th gear, step on the rear brake to hold the rear wheel in place (thus holding the motor), and loosen the bolt with a socket wrench.  Internet variation, put a 2-by-4 through the rear wheel rim underneath the swingarm to block the wheel from moving when the motor tries to turn.  Not recommended by Dale due to stress put on internal engine/transmission components, and I tended to agree with that.
3. The manual's preferred method: purchase a Yamaha magneto rotor holder, Yamaha PN# 90890-01235 ($129 at the local shop), remove the right side cover and hold the alternator rotor with the rotor holder to stop the engine from turning, while turning the bolt loose on the left side.  Requires replacing the right side cover gasket (Yamaha PN# 4XV-15451-00-00, $7.00).  Not recommended by Dale due to time and expense involved.

Ultimately I decided to go with option #3, being safest.  $150 and 3 days later I was the proud owner of a Yamaha YU-01235 magneto rotor holder and alternator side cover gasket.

With the rotor holder the install is not difficult and can be done by one person.  First remove left and right side covers, keeping the bolts in order as they are different lengths.  Some oil will drain from each side.

Right side cover bolts in order

Left side cover and bolts in order

Remove old right side cover gasket.  This was the hardest part, about an hour of painstaking scraping, attempting not to gouge gasket mating surfaces on the engine and cover.  Place rotor holder tabs into appropriately-sized holes in alternator rotor.  I put a rag on the handle and braced it against the frame slider.

Rotor holder

With the rotor holder in place it was easy to remove the timing bolt.

OEM timing disk and bolt

Holeshot timing advancer and OEM timing disk

The next step was to simply swap the timing disks and bolt in the Holeshot timing advancer (writing side out).  Then bolt the covers back on and check the oil level.

Holeshot timing advancer installed

Initial Ride Test

The timing advancer does make a difference.  The bike is quicker taking off from a stop and I haven't had any trouble with 87 octane gas (I only use Chevron though).  As far as gas mileage it seems like I'm not doing quite as well as before but the difference is not that much.  Part of the issue is I ride the bike differently now (more throttle all the time) since it performs and sounds better.  Roll-ons destroy mileage!